KORNATI
Kornati is an archipelago of 89 largelyuninhabited islands of really quite
exceptional beauty. You can visit for
the day but it takes some time to
explore it fully and to experience all
it has to offer. I love the place, but
Kornati is about raw untouched appeal
and for those who prefer a livelier,
more dynamic environment, it may
not be the place.
I don’t want to put anyone off visiting
but part of the appeal of the place is
that civilisation has not corrupted its
natural beauty and although the area
is protected by national park status, the
last thing Kornati needs is a stampede of
visitors who aren’t going to appreciate
its subtle charms.
The secluded island of Smokvica “Fig
Island” is a great place to moor for
the night. A short walk through fields
of fig and olive trees will take you to
the peak of the island from which you
can see the whole of the archipelago.
It’s not a difficult hike but the terrain
is uneven so I wouldn’t recommend
climbing in flip flops. Your reward at
the top, apart from a breathtaking view,
is the prevailing aroma of ripe figs and
eucalyptus on a hot day.
VIS
Vis is one of the furthest off shore
of the islands, and has a long and
colourful history. The protected
submarine environment is rich with
sunken ships from ancient times to the
Second World War. In the medieval
cities of Vis and Komiza the streets
echo the voices of a cappella singers
on warm summer evenings.
The bay at Stoncica has one of the
most beautiful beaches on the island,
with unbelievably clear waters and,
best of all, a small restaurant right by
the sea. However, if you’re thinking
of popping in for lunch and a swim
I’d be careful, as the your host will
undoubtedly offer you treat after treat,
and your lunch can easily turn into
an all day feast with a swim fitted in
between courses.
The leading wine producers on the
island, the Roki family, will invite you
to their cellar for a spot of wine tasting
and some local lamb cooked “under
the bell”, and many other specialities.
THE BLUE CAVE
Between noon and 2 o’clock
in the summer, the sun’s rays
bounce off the seabed and
illuminate the cave in a bright
blue, producing a silvery effect
on the surface of the water. If
you’re brave enough try diving
under the wall of the cave out to
sea, you only have to hold your
breath for around 30 seconds
but if you like your adrenaline
high, here’s your challenge.
VILLA KALIOPA
A romantic restaurant set
amongst the palm trees of an
ancient villa courtyard. It serves
traditional Vis wine, which has
been enjoyed by locals since
Greek times and is a fine drop.
BRAC
With its steep sides and the highest peak
in the Adriatic, Brac is a mammoth of an
island. The western point of Brac hides
the small town of Milna where most of
the local yachting community hangs out
at the small but cheerful marina, before
setting off to fi nd a more secluded (and
free) mooring spot for the night. If you
feel like a bit of exercise, hike up to
Vidova Gora, the highest spot on the
island, and from which the views are
spectacular. Just beneath the peak,
facing south towards Hvar, lies Zlatni
Rat (The Golden Cape), one of the most
photographed beaches of the Adriatic.
The tip of this huge arrow shaped beach
constantly changes shape depending on
where the breeze is coming from.
Apart from the freshest seafood you can
get, Brac offers succulent lamb from its
mountainous plateaus (there are more
sheep than human inhabitants on
the island). The many sheltered bays
surrounding Milna offer clear water for
swimming. The island also has a great
reputation amongst windsurfers and
parasailors who enjoy the strong and
steady winds in the Brac channel.
HVAR
In the heyday of the Venetian Empire,
Hvar was a central trading point and
the wealth generated made Hvar town
the place to be seen. Today well-heeled
Croats and overseas visitors stroll around
the Piazza and along the harbour side
(which is the largest in the Adriatic after
St. Mark’s in Venice) and hop from café
to bar. The fashion conscious have made
Hvar town a place to be seen, and much
remains for the casual visitor to see in
the narrow, stepped and stone streets.
The citadel above the town watches over
all, from the 16th century cathedral to
the two monasteries, and across to the
string of Pakleni “Hells” islands.
It can sometimes be tough to fi nd
mooring in Hvar town late in the day,
so if you fancy something a bit more
peaceful, the Devil’s Islands have a well
equipped ACI marina, and one of my
favourite restaurants, Dagmar’s, is just a
short walk away (see right).
LASTOVO
Upon closer inspection Lastovo turns
out to be an archipelago, with the main
island surrounded by 46 smaller ones,
which means that you’re spoilt for
choice when it comes to choosing an
isolated spot, whether for a lunchtime
swim, or an overnight mooring.
One of the bays you won’t want to miss
is Skrivena Luka “The Hidden Harbour”,
which used to be a hiding place for
pirates trying to evade the Venetians.
The mouth of the bay is almost invisible
to ships off the coast, and this makes for
a sheltered mooring spot.
If you take a dinghy to the bottom of the
bay you’ll fi nd a small fi sherman’s house
where, if you’re brave enough to introduce
yourself and strike up a conversation,
you might get some fresh lobster or the
recommended, scorpion fi sh.
The town of Ubli has the island’s
only fuel station, and is a sensible
overnight stop if you’re about to travel
westwards to Hvar or Vis. If you were
lucky enough to get some of that
scorpion fi sh you could venture out in
the evening to Hotel Solitudo and have
your fi sh barbecued the Lastovian way
in the hotel kitchen, and trust me,
scorpion fi sh à la Lastovo is something
you’ll remember…
KORCULA
Located on a small headland, Korcula
town, with its elegant Venetian
architecture, defensive walls and old
red, tiled roofs, may well remind you
of Dubrovnik. The waters between the
island and the coast used to be a busy
trading route in the days of Marco Polo,
full of merchant vessels and pirates
trying to loot them. This channel is a
lot quieter now, its waters disturbed
only by keen windsurfers, and by the
yachts and ferries.
Ingeniously designed to take the
effects of the prevailing wind into
account, the Old Town rises to a
central square with the narrow streets
acting as stone staircases. Restaurants
set out their tables along these alleys
and around two harbours either side
of the old town, where many of the
buildings exist in a state of graceful
dilapidation, with linen unfurled
from high windows. The occasional
classical concert takes place in the
cathedral, and elaborate and colourful
sword dances are a regular occurrence
during July and August.
MLJET
Time magazine ranks the island of Mijet
among the 10 most beautiful in the world,
while Jacques Cousteau considered this
part of the Adriatic one of the world’s most
beautiful diving locations. The northwest
part of the island is a national park covered
with pine forests and unusual saltwater
lakes. It has always been a target for fans
of untouched nature and wanderers on
the track of Ulysses and St Paul.
Hiking and biking paths run throughout
the park, around the lakes, over the
hills, where there are the remains of
Roman fortifi cations, and along the
cliffs and wild shores with breathtaking
views of the open sea. The bays at
Poalce and Pomena are probably the
best mooring spots, and are within a
short distance of the lakes.
It is believed that the Ship Castor & Pollux
on which St Paul was sailing for his court
trial in Rome, was shipwrecked on the
island of Mljet in late autumn in 59
AD. The shipwrecked men passed their
winter on the island and then continued
towards Rome. Apostolic Works describe
the inhabitants of the island as courteous
barbarians, however I can vouch for the
fact that, since then, their hospitality and
social skills have improved considerably!
MLJET NATIONAL PARK
If you happen to anchor on
Mljet en route, be sure to
visit the Mljet National Park
and the impressive saline
lakes within the island. The
easiest way to get around is
a leisurely bike ride and we
would strongly recommend this
area as one, not to be missed.
exceptional beauty. You can visit for
the day but it takes some time to
explore it fully and to experience all
it has to offer. I love the place, but
Kornati is about raw untouched appeal
and for those who prefer a livelier,
more dynamic environment, it may
not be the place.
I don’t want to put anyone off visiting
but part of the appeal of the place is
that civilisation has not corrupted its
natural beauty and although the area
is protected by national park status, the
last thing Kornati needs is a stampede of
visitors who aren’t going to appreciate
its subtle charms.
The secluded island of Smokvica “Fig
Island” is a great place to moor for
the night. A short walk through fields
of fig and olive trees will take you to
the peak of the island from which you
can see the whole of the archipelago.
It’s not a difficult hike but the terrain
is uneven so I wouldn’t recommend
climbing in flip flops. Your reward at
the top, apart from a breathtaking view,
is the prevailing aroma of ripe figs and
eucalyptus on a hot day.
VIS
Vis is one of the furthest off shore
of the islands, and has a long and
colourful history. The protected
submarine environment is rich with
sunken ships from ancient times to the
Second World War. In the medieval
cities of Vis and Komiza the streets
echo the voices of a cappella singers
on warm summer evenings.
The bay at Stoncica has one of the
most beautiful beaches on the island,
with unbelievably clear waters and,
best of all, a small restaurant right by
the sea. However, if you’re thinking
of popping in for lunch and a swim
I’d be careful, as the your host will
undoubtedly offer you treat after treat,
and your lunch can easily turn into
an all day feast with a swim fitted in
between courses.
The leading wine producers on the
island, the Roki family, will invite you
to their cellar for a spot of wine tasting
and some local lamb cooked “under
the bell”, and many other specialities.
THE BLUE CAVE
Between noon and 2 o’clock
in the summer, the sun’s rays
bounce off the seabed and
illuminate the cave in a bright
blue, producing a silvery effect
on the surface of the water. If
you’re brave enough try diving
under the wall of the cave out to
sea, you only have to hold your
breath for around 30 seconds
but if you like your adrenaline
high, here’s your challenge.
VILLA KALIOPA
A romantic restaurant set
amongst the palm trees of an
ancient villa courtyard. It serves
traditional Vis wine, which has
been enjoyed by locals since
Greek times and is a fine drop.
BRAC
With its steep sides and the highest peak
in the Adriatic, Brac is a mammoth of an
island. The western point of Brac hides
the small town of Milna where most of
the local yachting community hangs out
at the small but cheerful marina, before
setting off to fi nd a more secluded (and
free) mooring spot for the night. If you
feel like a bit of exercise, hike up to
Vidova Gora, the highest spot on the
island, and from which the views are
spectacular. Just beneath the peak,
facing south towards Hvar, lies Zlatni
Rat (The Golden Cape), one of the most
photographed beaches of the Adriatic.
The tip of this huge arrow shaped beach
constantly changes shape depending on
where the breeze is coming from.
Apart from the freshest seafood you can
get, Brac offers succulent lamb from its
mountainous plateaus (there are more
sheep than human inhabitants on
the island). The many sheltered bays
surrounding Milna offer clear water for
swimming. The island also has a great
reputation amongst windsurfers and
parasailors who enjoy the strong and
steady winds in the Brac channel.
HVAR
In the heyday of the Venetian Empire,
Hvar was a central trading point and
the wealth generated made Hvar town
the place to be seen. Today well-heeled
Croats and overseas visitors stroll around
the Piazza and along the harbour side
(which is the largest in the Adriatic after
St. Mark’s in Venice) and hop from café
to bar. The fashion conscious have made
Hvar town a place to be seen, and much
remains for the casual visitor to see in
the narrow, stepped and stone streets.
The citadel above the town watches over
all, from the 16th century cathedral to
the two monasteries, and across to the
string of Pakleni “Hells” islands.
It can sometimes be tough to fi nd
mooring in Hvar town late in the day,
so if you fancy something a bit more
peaceful, the Devil’s Islands have a well
equipped ACI marina, and one of my
favourite restaurants, Dagmar’s, is just a
short walk away (see right).
LASTOVO
Upon closer inspection Lastovo turns
out to be an archipelago, with the main
island surrounded by 46 smaller ones,
which means that you’re spoilt for
choice when it comes to choosing an
isolated spot, whether for a lunchtime
swim, or an overnight mooring.
One of the bays you won’t want to miss
is Skrivena Luka “The Hidden Harbour”,
which used to be a hiding place for
pirates trying to evade the Venetians.
The mouth of the bay is almost invisible
to ships off the coast, and this makes for
a sheltered mooring spot.
If you take a dinghy to the bottom of the
bay you’ll fi nd a small fi sherman’s house
where, if you’re brave enough to introduce
yourself and strike up a conversation,
you might get some fresh lobster or the
recommended, scorpion fi sh.
The town of Ubli has the island’s
only fuel station, and is a sensible
overnight stop if you’re about to travel
westwards to Hvar or Vis. If you were
lucky enough to get some of that
scorpion fi sh you could venture out in
the evening to Hotel Solitudo and have
your fi sh barbecued the Lastovian way
in the hotel kitchen, and trust me,
scorpion fi sh à la Lastovo is something
you’ll remember…
KORCULA
Located on a small headland, Korcula
town, with its elegant Venetian
architecture, defensive walls and old
red, tiled roofs, may well remind you
of Dubrovnik. The waters between the
island and the coast used to be a busy
trading route in the days of Marco Polo,
full of merchant vessels and pirates
trying to loot them. This channel is a
lot quieter now, its waters disturbed
only by keen windsurfers, and by the
yachts and ferries.
Ingeniously designed to take the
effects of the prevailing wind into
account, the Old Town rises to a
central square with the narrow streets
acting as stone staircases. Restaurants
set out their tables along these alleys
and around two harbours either side
of the old town, where many of the
buildings exist in a state of graceful
dilapidation, with linen unfurled
from high windows. The occasional
classical concert takes place in the
cathedral, and elaborate and colourful
sword dances are a regular occurrence
during July and August.
MLJET
Time magazine ranks the island of Mijet
among the 10 most beautiful in the world,
while Jacques Cousteau considered this
part of the Adriatic one of the world’s most
beautiful diving locations. The northwest
part of the island is a national park covered
with pine forests and unusual saltwater
lakes. It has always been a target for fans
of untouched nature and wanderers on
the track of Ulysses and St Paul.
Hiking and biking paths run throughout
the park, around the lakes, over the
hills, where there are the remains of
Roman fortifi cations, and along the
cliffs and wild shores with breathtaking
views of the open sea. The bays at
Poalce and Pomena are probably the
best mooring spots, and are within a
short distance of the lakes.
It is believed that the Ship Castor & Pollux
on which St Paul was sailing for his court
trial in Rome, was shipwrecked on the
island of Mljet in late autumn in 59
AD. The shipwrecked men passed their
winter on the island and then continued
towards Rome. Apostolic Works describe
the inhabitants of the island as courteous
barbarians, however I can vouch for the
fact that, since then, their hospitality and
social skills have improved considerably!
MLJET NATIONAL PARK
If you happen to anchor on
Mljet en route, be sure to
visit the Mljet National Park
and the impressive saline
lakes within the island. The
easiest way to get around is
a leisurely bike ride and we
would strongly recommend this
area as one, not to be missed.
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